Oh, Canada?

A trip north of the border to Canada offers U.S. tourists a chance to enjoy Old World charms without leaving North America.  Last summer (July 2013), we took advantage of reasonable airfares and favorable exchange rates to enjoy three Canadian locales, each with its own unique history, feel, and charm.  While we felt as though we were in Europe, visiting Canada allowed us to be “continental” without all the challenges and constraints of flying across the Atlantic Ocean.

Ottawa

Ottawa, located in the Ontario Province, is Canada’s capital city.  Unlike Washington, D.C., Ottawa’s style fits in with Canada’s laid-back atmosphere – mixing British tradition with Canada’s rapidly expanding immigrant population.  Ottawa eventually became Canada’s capital city as a result of its geography.  It sits along the Ottawa River, which is a natural boundary between mainly English-speaking Ontario and the French-speaking province of Quebec.

Canada's Parliament Hill - seat of their federal government.

In downtown Ottawa, along the banks of the Ottawa River, is Parliament Hill – the home to Canada’s federal government.  The three gothic structures that comprise “the Hill,” particularly the Peace Tower in the middle of the Centre Block, are reminiscent of England’s Parliament Building in downtown London.  In fact, during the daily changing of the Ceremonial Guard at Parliament Hill, you feel as though you are in Jolly Old England with the sight of the guards in ceremonial red jackets and bearskin hats along with the sounds of the bagpipes and drums.  A key tipoff that you are not truly in England is that every command given by the Guard Mount is in both English and French.

Changing of the guard on Parliament Hill.

Tours of the “Hill” are free and highly organized.  Even as Americans, we found it interesting to learn how Canada’s federal and provincial governments work, and the long history behind how Canada became a sovereign nation.  Today, Canada is a constitutional monarchy with a parliamentary type of government.  Canada’s government remains tied to England because the British monarchy has political authority over certain matters of state, and Canadians still pledge an oath to a British sovereign (in this case, Queen Elizabeth).

Historic Rideau Hall.

Speaking of the British monarchy, the Queen’s representative in Canada resides in the historic Rideau Hall just to the north and east of central downtown Ottawa.  Rideau is another one of those free tours that provides a glimpse into Canada’s historic links to Great Britain.  Rideau is not only the governor general’s home and workplace, it is a grand mansion used for state dinners and other formal affairs.  Visitors are encouraged to wander the beautiful grounds, find trees planted by famous dignitaries, tour the garden areas, or, as we witnessed, have a rousing game of cricket.

Ottawa Locks at the base of Rideau
Canal. The 19th Century system is
still in use today.

One of the more relaxing and interesting afternoons of our Ottawa adventure was spent touring the Ottawa Locks and learning how these 19th century engineering wonders are still in use today.  Around 1832, the Rideau Canal was created from an ancient canoe pathway, which provided the British army with a more manageable supply route.  Today, the locks are part of the Rideau Canal National Historic Site.  Tour guides are spread along the lower end of the canal where it meets the Ottawa River.  Guides showed us how modern-day lock workers still use hand winches (called “crabs”) to open and close the lock gates.  Workers crank open the gates to let water to rush into the lock, raising the water level and allowing boats on the Ottawa River, which is lower than Rideau Canal, to move upstream.  Even though the process is still manually performed (as it was in 1832), we watched in amazement as several pleasure boats and their passengers swiftly moved upwards and onto Rideau Canal.  The entire process took less than an hour.

Fresh fruits and vegetables in ByWard Market.

Ottawa is home to both English and French-speaking Canadians, and that mix of languages and customs is highly evident in ByWard Market, or Marche By.  You stroll along narrow streets crammed with pedestrians and cars, passing old-style British pubs and eclectic eateries.  We wandered into one place; called Fatboys, with its unique take on “Tennessee Bar-B-Que.”  On the south end of ByWard are the street vendors and a farmer’s market with plenty of fresh fruits and vegetables.  Most of the folks manning the stalls were French Canadians, and it was great to hear them banter back-and-forth with each other and with us.  And just for a moment, I imagined myself in a small, French village haggling with a local farmer over the price of fresh strawberries.

We stayed in an older rental home in a working class – but quite pleasant – neighborhood tucked between the Ottawa River and the ByWard Market section of downtown.  In fact, the contrast between working class community and world stage as represented by foreign embassies and the country’s government seat is what makes Ottawa a truly unique destination city.

And that is how Ottawa feels, a little big-city, with an urban flavor, and just enough “English” mixed with French flair and international style to remind you that you’re no longer in the United States.

Tremblant

We drove East and then North to the ski resort area of Mont Tremblant, about an hour’s drive north of Montreal in Canada’s second largest province of Quebec.  To most American travelers, interstate and highway systems in other countries look about the same as back home, and Canada’s interstate system is no different.  Once you drive across the Ottawa River and enter Quebec, however, you quickly note that all highway markers, exit ramps, and street signs are in French.  Quebec Province definitely has a different feel to it compared with its neighbor, Ontario.

Mont Tremblant resort area on a beautiful day. Ski area
and pedestrian village are in the background.

Mont Tremblant literally means “trembling mountain,” and has been a major resort community for more than 60 years.  What makes Tremblant interesting is that the resort is divided into distinct areas, each of which has its own unique vibe.  We rented a condominium in one of the many golf course communities that surround the main resort area.  Staying away from the daily hubbub of the main ski resort and its pedestrian village allowed for a peaceful nightly retreat.

The Demon Falls at Mont-Tremblant
National Park.

During the day, however, we thoroughly immersed ourselves into every aspect of the resort community, which is part of Mont-Tremblant National Park.  Eating outside in one of the lakeside communities while enjoying views of the mountains, venturing into the    “centre city” to window shop and stock up on  supplies for our rental, and, eventually trekking into the heart of the National Park.

For our family, a vacation is not truly a vacation until we get lost.  And our day at Mont-Tremblant National Park started off with a missed turn, endlessly winding roads – that continued to go up and up – and attempting to get directions from French-speaking Canadians who did not know a word of English.  Once inside the park, it was – like many other parts of our trip – beautiful and serene.  The park is 583 square miles, with 400 lakes, hiking trails and campgrounds, and numerous streams and rivers.  If there is one thing to do at the park,

A little hometown 'boogie woogie' blues!

it’s climb the trails to the waterfalls, especially  the Chute du Diable (Demon Falls).

Before we left the Tremblant area, we were treated to an experience that any fan of Memphis Blues would love: the International Blues Festival.  Yes, in the middle of French-speaking Canada, these Canadians love their blues.  The annual festival, held in July, takes place in the ski resort’s pedestrian village.  There were multiple stages with assorted takes on a classic American art form – including a terrific performance by Memphis-transplant Victor Wainwright!

Montreal

We finished our Canadian vacation in a city that embodies that Old World “feel” of Europe with the modern day “look” of a big city.  To ensure that you get that “feels like Europe” vibe in Montreal, you must stay close to Old Montreal, located adjacent to downtown along the Saint Lawrence riverfront.  Montreal, established by the French as fur trading post in the mid-1600s, is actually an island much like Manhattan.  As we drove into the city, we remarked that Montreal looks like any

A feeling of old world Europe in
Montreal's historic quarter.

other “big city” metropolis.  As we made our way into downtown, however, modern office buildings shared space with gothic cathedrals and classic marble and stone structures.  It was definitely the old mixed with the new.

Rounding the corner of our modern-day hotel located on a boulevard busy with pedestrians and vehicle traffic, we veered right, and slowly made our way up the hill to Place d’Armes.  This ancient square in the heart of Old Montreal is home to some of the historic district’s most intriguing architecture.  Dominating the square is the Notre-Dame Basilica.  Notre-Dame’s exterior is a true testament to those Gothic-style churches of ancient Europe, but it’s the church’s interior that draws the crowds.  “Breathtaking” doesn’t even describe the true beauty of the artwork, the statues, and the stain glass windows.

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All the sidewalk cafes, bars, and restaurants are another charm of Old Montreal.  Locals and tourists alike take advantage of the temperate summer weather to eat, drink, and people watch.  Once again, we felt as though we were transported to a small French town where we walked up narrow cobblestone streets in search of our nightly meal.

Finally, we ventured out from Old Montreal using the city’s elaborate underground commuter system.  About twenty miles of underground tunnels and business space include shops, bus and train terminals, and even a mall.  It was one time when getting lost had its benefits as we discovered more and more of downtown Montreal's charm.